Monday, July 9, 2012

Never brush dry curls and 10 other rules for managing curly hair

Here are some general rules for curly haircare.  You'll find all different rules for curly haircare on the internet.  I've combed through the rules and tried to summarize them based on my own personal experience and my experience with curly girls hair.
Again, I'm not a stylist.  Just a curly girl who has had some really hilarious and bad experiences trying to manage my hair....

1. Never brush curly hair dry.  Never!  I can't think of any exceptions to this rule.  When you comb curly hair you should comb it when wet, with lot of conditioner using a wise tooth comb.  The conventional brushes that you see at drugstores are not meant for curly hair.  If you are looking for a curly hair brush or comb, I'd recommend looking at online curly hair stores to see what they carry.

2. Don't over shampoo (and use a sulfate free shampoo).  As I've mentioned in previous posts curly hair should only be shampooed when dirty, or about once/twice a week.  Shampooing more often strips hair of it's natural oils and makes it more frizzy.
A good rule I learned from a curly hair stylist is that you should be going through 3 bottles of conditioner for every one bottle of shampoo (approximately).  And don't be afraid to use lots and lots of conditioner-condition every day.

3.  Use a cool water rinse to rinse out the last bit of conditioner.  I'm not 100% sure on how it works, but I was told this helps to seal the hair cuticle.  Either way, I find it way easier to manage curls that have had a cold rinse.
(Note: I don't use cold rinses on curlygirl.  It seems too cruel on a baby/ toddler. I'll wait until she's older and can understand why we are doing it).

4. Always let air dry (In other words.. don't use a blowdryer).  I'll be honest, I own a blow dryer.  A stylist once convinced me to buy one.  It's been used about 4 times in the past 12 years and each time my hair has become extremely dry and frizzy.

5.  Don't towel dry curly hair.  The terry towel material makes hair frizzy.  Use a micro fibre cloth or better yet, just leave it (see rule #4).

6. Sleep on a satin or sateen pillow case- this is the same rule as using a sleep cap.  Helps with frizz.

7.  Put your hair product in your hair when it's wet.  You'll find this recommendation all over curly hair blogs.  I'm not sure this is unique to curly hair.. but wet hair holds product.  The best order to put product in is to use a leave in conditioner first (some sort of curl cream or heavier moisturizer) followed by a gel.

8.  Find a hair stylist who knows what they are doing-hard to do.  I've lived in Vancouver for 8 years and I haven't found one that I'm 100% happy with yet.  You will find at Ouidad salons in the USA they cut curly hair dry- but I have found that very few stylists are willing to dry cut hair.  If they say they want to take off an inch, tell them to take 1/2 an inch.  I think every curly girl knows this rule (lol).
Another thing I've found that works well for me is to bring my own styling products to the salon. After my hair is cut, I ask them to wet it/ wash it, and then I put in my own styling products.  Getting the stylist to use a tiny bit of their hair serum and maybe a bit of gel doesn't work at all.  I usually end up walking out looking like a cotton ball.  So I've now started being more assertive and styling my own hair at the salon.
Curly hair also doesn't need to be cut as often as straight hair.  (Unless maintaining a particular style).  But if you are going for natural, it takes so long to grow that you can cut it less often.  I spend my money on good hair products rather than at the salon.

9.  The less you touch your hair the better.  So try not to put your hands in your hair too much.  More manipulation = more frizz.  This is partly why I find braids or twists work so well on curly girl.  She doesn't pull them as much.

10. Embrace your curls, and that includes embracing a bit of frizz.  This is something I still struggle with.  No matter how much time and energy I put into my hair, it's still a bit frizzy and messy looking.  I never feel that I look totally put together- and I think that now it's ok.  It's who I am, my hair is such a part of my identity I couldn't imagine being straight locked.  I've got nothing against people who straighten their hair, but it's not for me.  The few times I've had it straightened I've felt as though I wasn't myself and I spent way more time worrying about my straight hair than my curly hair.



Friday, July 6, 2012

Taliah Waajid: Kinky wavy natural berry clean three in one shampoo


Overall summary: This is a new product for us, and while it does say it is a 3-in-1 and that no conditioner is needed, I went into this product with the understanding that I would likely still use conditioner.   There are sulfates in this product, so those who are working on "no poo" routines would want to avoid this.  However, the sulfates seemed to be moderated somewhat by the curl softeners (chamomile).  
After washing the hair felt a bit astringent (the sulfates)- or that squeaky clean feeling.  Something that isn't really what I like to feel with curly hair shampoos.  However, it didn't irritate curly girls eyes and it washed out quite easily.  Definitely requires conditioner treatment after use.  

Price: $$ ($8.00). A moderate price for 8oz.  I used about a dime sized portion on curly girl and had a full head of lather.  

Consistency: Regular shampoo like consistency.

Scent: It says it is Berry scented, but to us is sort of smelled like bubblegum or fruit.  Artificially scented, but it is not offensive.

Recommended for: At this point I'd recommend this for a shampoo for curly hair types below a 4.  If hair is 4+ I'd definitely recommend avoiding sulfate based shampoo's.  For now this is an ok shampoo and I may consider ordering it again.  

Does anyone use this product for 4+ hair types?  Do you find it drying?  
Are you using conditioner afterwards as well?


Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Taliah Waajid: Kinky, Wavy Natural Style and Shine


Overall summary: The jury is out on this product for me.  We've been using it for a few months now, and I go through stages where I really like it, and where I'm not so sure.  It's supposed to help add shine and moisture as well as stop and repair breakage.  If you use too much it leaves small white flecks throughout the hair- strange little white crumbs really, not your usual product build up.  I'm still not sure if it provides much hold though.  Right now I've been using the vanilla styling cream for braids and it's a bit better for braids and twists.  This is something I will use as an alternative to curl sealer.  

Price: $ ($8.00). A little goes a long way with this product.  We've gone through 1/3 of this container in over 4 months.  I suspect it will last us about a year.  

Consistency: The consistency of this product is thick and sticky. It's almost like icing.  It feels sticky to touch, but it doesn't make the hairs sticky or crunchy.  

Scent: Coconut- smells a bit like banana boat sunscreen to me.

Recommended for: 2+ curly hair.  A non traditional gel option. Use if you aren't looking for hold, but use sparingly to prevent white build up.  

Is anyone else using this product, how is it working for you?

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Good Hair versus Bad Hair-curly mama baby photo

This photo is me as a baby...  I love this photo, it makes me laugh.  This photo is a good example of a curly girl with really out of control hair-yes, I was victim to the dry brush out every day.

Yes it's cute, but as an adolescent I remember going through my baby photos and thinking "bad hair"!
Funny how we assign labels like good and bad to something like our hair!

My hope is that curly girl doesn't think of her hair as good or bad.. rather instead uses words like beautiful and is proud of her hair as she grows up.  It's something I'm still working on myself.

Or more likely she will laugh at photos of herself when she was a baby and say "oh mom, what were you thinking"...


Saturday, June 23, 2012

Curly girl hairstyles

Our curly girl wears a number of different hairstyles regularly.
I'll preface this post by saying I'm not the expert and there are a lot of curly mama's who can do curly styles better than I can.  But here are some examples of what I've been doing and working with.

Since curly girls hair isn't too curly (3b/3c) I find it falls out of some styles by the end of the day, so for example, twists and individual braids need to be taken out at the end of the day (1 day hairstyle).
So far I've only found a couple hairstyles that last more than 1 day.

The style we choose each day also has to do with what we are planning to do and our timeline.  So when we are rushed she may get braids and ponies, or a single cornrow on the front of her hair, or sometimes just a headband.  When I have more time I may do little braids and beads all over her head, or cornrows.

When I know we are planning on swimming I try to do cornrows that are full of coconut oil to protect her hair- but this style which usually last 2 days only lasts one on a swim day.  I also have to consider how much time we are spending in a car.  If we have a drive into town where I think she may pull off her sleep cap then I try to do a style that won't get too knotty from rubbing on the carseat (like small braids).

Her hair is also quite short (chin length), so if I have done a style with beads she may not nap well, or may be uncomfortable in the carseat if there are beads pressing into the back of her head.  Hopefully this will change when her hair gets a bit longer.

Here are some photos and a summary of how many days each style lasts.  I think this may also have to do with my skill at placing tight braids (not so skilled yet), as well as that she has a number of small, short finer pieces of hair that don't stay in the braids very well at this point.  Hopefully as her hair grows longer it will stay in longer.

I've also been experimenting with loose hairstyles a bit more.  I think with the right product to hold the curl and keep away the fuzz/ tangles, her curls look amazing loose.  Certain styles like locks/ coils tend to get very matted- particularly when she pulls off her sleep cap in the car or during nap time.  I think until she gets older I may avoid coils.  The last time I did coils her hair was a mess to detangle that evening.

1 day hairstyles:

Easy fast/ styles:

(The one braid off the forehead)- I use this style when we are in a rush, or when we will be playing outside a lot.  I like that it controls the hair in her face but allows her curls to fly free :)
When I do this style usually I use some shea butter cream to hold the braid, and then use a detangler/ leave in conditioner and then curl sealer in the back to prevent fuzzes.
This is a 5 minute hairstyle.














This style is ponies' and twists (or ponies and braids).  I'll need to find another photo closer up.  This style takes about 15 minutes, sectioning the hair into ponies, then twisting or beading.  I can add beads or just snaps to the end.  Looks cute, keeps the hair off her face but the braids/ twists tend to fall out by the end of the day.
The product I generally use is a shea butter on the braids and a locking serum to hold the rest of her hair flat and try to prevent fly aways.
We usually do between 5-7 ponies and she can sleep quite well with this style as long as there aren't beads on the ends.  When the beads are on the ends it's a bit too pokey for her head.
She wore this style a lot when she was little, just pulled up into a barrette.  Only takes 5 minutes.  The back is conditioned and then curl sealer is added to help control the fuzzes.  This is a "daddy" hairstyle (lol). I find the sides may fall out a bit, so sometimes to hold them a bit better I'll do a small braid on either side of her head and clip the braids up into the barrette.


Another easy style is just 2 pony tails at the top her her head.  Easier now her hair is longer.  She actually really likes this style. 










I don't have many photos of her hair in coils (aside from some blurry ones on my iPhone).  I'll try to take some better photos next time. I love the look of this style, but it tangles so easily sometimes I'm not sure it's a great style to use.  It gets really really tangled when she's in a carseat or stroller if she pulls off her sleep cap.  This style pictured below took a long time to gently detangle at the end of the day.


This is her hair au-natural with a headband.  I love this style- but it is much more prone to tangles and fuzzes.  Shows off her beautiful curls though.









2 day hairstyles:

This cornrow to puffs style is quite easy.  It only takes about 20 minutes to do and it looks cute.  Occasionally this can last more than 2 days, but generally it's a 2 day hairstyle.  The hair is moisturized first, detangled and then a shea butter is applied to each section before braiding.  The back of the hair which is loose is moisturized and curl sealer is applied to help with fuzzies.  After day 1, I usually have to wet down her hair and re-apply the curl sealer to the back.  Sometimes I'll apply a bit of curl sealer on top of the braids to help with the fly-aways.  This is why it's important to find a non flaking curl sealer. 




This style will really depend on what we are doing.  If the braids are place correctly I may get 2 days out of this style.  But if they are creating pressure on her head it may only last a day.  Sometimes I can remove the beads and leave the braids in, and then re-bead them the next day.  















I love cornrows in her hair.  This is small or short cornrows into little loose braids.  When she gets older I'd expect this style to last more than 2 days, but for now we are only getting 2 days out of the braids before it becomes too fuzy/ unkempt. 

This photo was the end of day 2, after we'd gone swimming.  You can see some of the shorter/ finer hair is starting to fall from the braids.  I can do cornrows at an angle-which seem to work a bit better on the natural part of her hair (not sure why), or you can do them straight back.  I will sometimes add beads to the end, and finish the underside of her hair in beads.  Depending on how much outdoor play she is doing that day this style only lasts 2 days.






3 day hairstyles:

So far I've only found 2 hairstyles that can even sort of last 3 days, but partway through day 3 I start to feel it's looking unkempt.  This is fine for at home, but if we are going out I'd generally re-do the style.

The first hairstyle that is a multi-day hairstyle is the diamond ponies with and without beads.  This is a very easy style and you can make it more fun by adding different coloured elastics or beads to the sections.  It lasts for 2-3 days and works really well for swim days.  It's also a very dad friendly hairstyle.







This is one of my favorite 3 day hairstyles.  Cornrows to the crown of her head, with beads on the ends, then loose and natural at the back.  It looks pretty, it stays in really well for 3 days and only requires a bit of attention to the back curls on day 2/3.  This is a great style for when Daddy is taking care of curly girl, since he only has to detangle and moisturize the back of her hair.  When her hair is in this style we usually use a cleansing conditioner on the back when in the bathtub. 


This was day 3 of the hairstyle above.  You an see it's  falling out of the braids by this point.

Monday, June 11, 2012


Darcy's Botanicals Daily Cleansing Conditional Cream

Overall summary: I ordered this product because we were getting low on conditioner and I like the styling cream (also made by Darcy's botanicals) so I thought I'd give it a try.
The first time I used it I was initially impressed by the thickness of the product and it felt like it would go a really long way.. but it didn't make curly girls hair slippery enough.  It was definitely cleansing.. but it couldn't be used alone.  After using this I had to condition curly girls hair with a thicker conditioner to make it smooth and slippery enough to comb out the tangles.  

Price: $$ ($15.00). I'd say this is a bit of a pricier option because of it's consistency and the fact you actually need to use quite a bit to make the hair slippery/ soft enough.

Consistency: The consistency of this product is vert thick, like a thick whipped butter

Scent: Vanilla, smells delicious.

Recommended for: 2+ curly hair in place of shampoo but doesn't really seem to work for 3b/3c curls as a conditioner on it's own.  Consider using this in place of shampoo a few days/ week.. for us the full verdict is out on whether I'd order this product again...

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Madagascar Vanilla Styling Creme





Product Review: Madagascar Vanilla Styling Creme
Overall summary: I like this product for braiding and twists, I find her hair feels really beautiful when I take it out of the cornrows or braids and it does hold the moisture all day.  But I do find this product is for styles, not natural hair.  It doesn't seem as great to help with frizz when her hair is down and loose- it seems the hair has to dry in the style with the product in order to achieve the full benefit.
I also find this product works best when you use a lot of it, and moisturize the hair first.  Particularly for the parts off hair that have tighter curls.  When I do braids with this product I scoop about an eraser size portion of the cream for each braid.  When using this product my hands do get a bit greasy, so I wipe them off and have to clean them with a dry cloth between every 2-3 braids.

Price: $$ ($15.00). A medium priced option.


Consistency: The consistency of this product is quite thick, like a thick shea butter cream.  


Scent: Like vanilla cupcakes.. yummy!

Recommended for: 3+ curly hair in lock, braids, twists or other styles.   



I've also been asked where I usually buy my hair products.
I have a few places, but my go to right now is Nandi Kids: http://nandikids.ca/
I find the owner is really responsive and able to make quick changes to the order etc. She also ships things really quickly which I like.